The pebbled glass door panel is lettered in flaked black paint: "monkeyfish." It is a reasonably shabby door at the end of a reasonably shabby corridor in the basement of a building that was new about the year the beer tap became the high point of civilization. The door is locked, but next to it is another door with the same legend that is not locked. Come on in — there's nobody in here but me, a really annoying mosquito, and a chessboard that is set and waiting.